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Actually very little. At the opposite end from the door, there is a slipped pane of glass, about 2 inches which gives a little air circulation. In addition I consider that, being as the bubblewrap is well away from the outside glazing, whether glass or substitute, sufficient air circulates. Also most days will find me entering the G/H and unless the weather is really blustery the door will be open during such visits. I have always disliked the use of chemicals, so even anti fungicides are avoided
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On my 13x8 cedarwood greenhouse, boarded upto staging height. I use the small bubble type wrap. Supplier in Kent. Supplied as roll 900mm x something like 100mtrs. I simply staple it in lengths from front [door end] to back. First length is set under the ridge about equal either side. Subsequent lengths are stapled with an upper overlap of about 1.5 to 2.0 inches allowing for any leaks to drain downwards to side walls. The glazing bars are probably 1.75 to 2.0 inches so a good gap is given between
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Grow-way. To avoid any confusion. I am sure that all of us admire your plans for the errection of your greenhouse. The hints and tips given have been with the best of intentions. As I said in my original comment. Basically as all is needed is a level surface, [edge] for the base to stand on. If you desire to dig a footing-like arrangement. I suggest that you dig out say a spade width X whatever depth you prefer of the area to which the greenhouse will stand. Fill with either rubble plus concrete
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It is obvious that the author is not overly DIY experienced but it is well that he/she has asked all these questions. Taking into account that some sheds/greenhouses are merely set on paving slabs and suchlike, digging out any form of reinforced footing is not required. The main point to consider is that the structure is standing level and square when completed. Let's face it. Should a greenhouse be battered by galeforce winds, it would be better to have some flexibility rather than having a
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Obviously you have a deeper affection for trees than perhaps many others nowadays. IMHO I would take into account the age of the tree. It was there long before me, conclusion. Possible preservation order in force? The oak is such a statement on it's own. There is a good chance that the tree will out-survive you and your new venture. Careful maintenance of the tree will continue to be so rewarding. For me. The tree would stay. Mike.
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Lynn, This could be plum pox [SHARKA]. Not very common in Britain but more so on the continent. I would advise you to chek out the details either in a good gardening book of pests and diseases. Otherwise just type the words into your browser. It used to be, might still be in fact, reportable to the Min of Agriculture.
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Hello Paul I have to admit from the start that I find it difficult to accept the concept of a 'house plant'. Having said that. I can imagine your feelings that this plant has become a tree. Had it been mine, I am certain that I would have long before now, attempted to propagate from it so as to obtain something more pleasing to the eye. Still that is only my opinion. I do not wish to offend anyones feelings. Have you looked on the internet? I had a quick glance and found several refernces
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As with everyone else who at some time or other has come into contact with this sticky situation, we all sympathize with you. Unfortunately there is basically nothing you can do, except of course in your particular case. Move your plants for a while. Alternatively it would be an expensive task to spray the offending tree/s. This sticky substance is a product of aphids. It is the sugary honeydew substance excreted by them. Most of us enjoy and benefit from our trees but quite often we have to put
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What a beautiful flower. Without going into too much detail etc. Might I respectfully offer a little bit of advice. If you save the seed, don't keep it too long before sowing it. As with all the Papava genus, please do not bury the seed when sowing. Scatter the seed over the soil suface and the lightly rake over. Of course, if sowing in pans or trays, the process will be reduced. Personally I would select a spot close to where the original plant has grown, and carry out the sowing there.
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There are various aids available, however there are a few points that you mention that concern me. It's admireable that you give of your time to these youngsters. You mention that you do this on a voluntary basis. I suspect that the school stand well back when the thought of paying-up enters the equation, hence the cheapy idea. Have you made any suggestions to parents for help or backing. In particular, I would be a little concerned about children and hanging baskets. In the event of an accident
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