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Hi Annie. I would say it's a variegated cultivar of Dracaena fragrans . Possibly Dracaena fragrans 'Warneckei'. Which will eventually grow to look like the picture below.
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Sounds like it could be peach leaf curl, a fungal disease which affects the growth of new leaves in peaches, nectarines and apricots. It isn't a serious problem and can easily be controlled by cultural methods.Try this link: http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles1200/peach_leaf_curl.asp It doesn't drastically affect yeild or vigour as peach trees usually produce a second flush of healthy leaves if the affected leaves are removed. Alternatively what you are seeing could be caused by sun and
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Thankyou pesty. I see I've got confused between cushion scale and cottony cushion scale! I imagine the treatment is perhaps similar though? Although there isn't any RHS advice on the cottony cushion scale that I can find at the moment. But just to clarify. This is cottony cushion scale: And this is plain old cushion scale:
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Pelargoniums in general are relatively easy to go. Most of them require similar cultural conditions. They should be fed fortnightly throughout the growing season with a balanced feed to encourage flowering. Watering should be reduced in the autumn and almost ceased during winter, when plants should be potted up and kept in a light frost free place, such as a windowsill, conservatory or glasshouse. Some varieties respond well to being cut back hard or pinching out of growing tips in autumn or spring
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The rose pictures you have posted on here are a hybrid tea variety, not a climber. Hybrid teas should be hard pruned annually to stop them getting tall and woody, as yours has become. But don't worry it's not too late to save it! During late winter cut the green coloured stems back to about 30 cm from the ground. Make your cut using a sharp pair of secuteurs just above an outward facing bud. Buds on the lower stem will appear as small raised bumbs seen at regular intervals along the stem
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You have Cushion scale (Chloropulvinaria floccifera). This insect feeds on sap and is mainly found on Camellia but also attacks the foliage of other evergreen shrubs, including holly, Euonymus japonicus , Trachelospermum , Rhododendron and Choisya . It shouldn't affect Quince which is deciduous but might affect Viburnum if it's an evergreen and not a deciduous variety. The foliage becomes heavily coated over the winter months with a sooty mould that grows on the pest’s sugary excrement. For
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There are several reasons why you may have had a lack of flowers this year : Agapanthus can be shy to flower if subjected to drought conditions following flowering during the growing season of the previous year. Although with the amount of rain we had last summer I doubt this would've been the case! To ensure a good display next year, keep plants moist until autumn after flowers start to fade, which will encourage the development of new flower buds for next years display. There is a common misconception
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It's probably a little late in the year to start pruning now. Spring flowering shrubs like Viburnum opulus should be pruned immediately after the flowers have faded. If you prune now, you risk having no flowers for next year, as the flowers buds are formed during the previous growing season. Older plants left un-pruned do tend to become large and woody at the base and thus fewer flowers are produced lower down on the shrub. I would suggest you leave it until next year now before pruning. The
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