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Thanks folks. I was looking at concrete where you just add water to the bag. If i were to use this would the soil trench need a small top coating of sand to pour the concrete onto-rather than bare soil. Also do I have to lay further bricks onto the wet concrete to lay the base down onto or can I smooth just the the concrete as level as possible for the base to fix directly onto. Do I need to then use rawl plug and screws for either scenario. I have a back problem so I did not want to lay concrete
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If I just use breeze blocks and dont buy the greenhouse base can I drill into the blocks and insert rawl plugs and screws through frame to hold it onto the blocks. I am not sure how you use bolts in a similar fashion unless you could explain so I understand. I am hoping a about 25 breeze blocks at £1.00 each with concrete in footings will do it. The B&Q link seems to suggest that the footings dont need anything below the concete and infers from what I can gather that concrete goes straight onto
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I plan to site a glass 6 x 8 greenhouse next spring up near a external wall due to space and not wanting a lean to. I wondered how weighty the steel bases are(that come with greenhouse) as I did not want to invest in other base holding materials. Are bases designed to hold the greenhouse okay in gales etc. I assume this is what they are designed to do? Thanks again!
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I cannot visualise a nylon brush. Can anyone say where I could get this and what it looks like. Good news a non-scratch top quality scourer does work but is painfully slow for whole greenhouse. Much appreciated Dave.
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Can I ask which is best as I read green netting removes useful light spectrums compared to say a different colour. I am doing alpines-the books say the correct type for quick rooting plants is sand,also that sharp sand is the way to go(it defines sharp as may be a better mix than bagged stuff I think?)- So I think you are very much agreeing with this. Is course grit sand basically a very gritty sand which lets in air. The different books mention that a compact mixture kept moist is ideal. Probably
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I have read that the best pure sand is collected from builders yard as a local sand ,not bagged. Often buiders sand which is bagged is to large a partical size apparently. Can any one tell me more? Seperate question- Also I have posted about problems with coolglass sticking to polycarbonate. I have had replies but we are struggling for solutions. You can spray on polycarbonate according to Bayer coolglass makers? The forum thread is in tools and equiptment forum, so please if u have time have a quick
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Thanks folks I will have a go with the nylon scourer and try the bicarbonate and vinegar and the bath/sink/hob/grill cleaner things. As I say it does come off if you use your nail but you have to give it a real strong push and keep that pressure as you scrape-which hurts your nail some what and would take 365 days to do. I tried to remove it 2 months ago but could not when things were dry. I think because I applied a lighter solution it burnt it self hard to the surface but is still removable but
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I am a little irritated as I followed the instructions of Bayers Coolglass designed for glass and most polycarbonates. I was told to paint some on in a corner first wait a few days and see if it comes off first for the polycarbonate. I did this and it removed fine. However the coolglass does not come off after being on there through out the summer. I have tried vinegar, bleech,Meth. spirit ,window cleaner ,toothpaste(often good believe it or not)and it wont come off. I had sprayed a weaker solution
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