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Probably the fungal disease called scab causing the brownish/black spots and some yellowing/dropping of the most damaged leaves. Spores are dispersed on the wind and land on the leaves. When the leaf surface is wet for several hours (including water droplets which remain for a few hours after rain stops), the spore can germinate and infect the leaf or the fruit. Some years and some varieties suffer worse than others. There is no cure once infected, but the problem may not occur next year depending
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If you can show some pictures it would be helpful - assuming that you're still reading this several days later. I don't worry about lichens as I reckon that they add an extra layer of defence to a tree: any disease has got to get through the lichen first. If you scrub them off, you may also damage the bark beneath which might allow diseases to enter the small wounds. I think it's more likely that the lichens just happen to be living on a branch, and now it is dead, they are also using
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It's probably the fungal disease "scab". You don't mention which variety you have. Once symptoms show, there is no cure. The commercial orchards spray fungicide after every period when the leaves might have been damp for several hours in order to prevent the disease establishing (wet period including damp periods between showers: four half-hour showers spaced an hour apart may well mean several consecutive hours of wet leaves and fruits; enough for the scab spores to germinate and
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It's probably scab - a fungal infection caused by prolonged wet spells. A picture would be helpful. I prefer to grow varieties with natural resistance. Firstly because with the right choice of variety, there is no need for harmful chemicals which may remain in the fruit or contaminate the nearby area (including children). Secondly sprays aren't cheap. Thirdly, once spraying is begun, it requires multiple sprays each season because it seems to upset the balance of "friendly" micro
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Probably bacterial canker. We've had incredible amounts of rain in the last few months; cherries don't like wet climates. I don't have much to do with cherries as I consider them to be too troublesome, but I would expect to have to prune-out the diseased bits well into healthy wood, then use a wound-sealing paint such as "Arbrex Heal and Seal". If it is likely to be a problem every year, I'd give up on the tree and plant something that doesn't require a lot of work.
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No, don't give up on it. We've had a viciously cold winter, so perhaps only the deep roots have survived. It may take them many months to grow new shoots up to the surface, but I can assure you that I've had several plants come back from deep roots many months later after apparently dying. In one incredible case, it was over a year later.
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The phrase used to go: "Plant apples for your retirement and plant pears for your heirs" In other words: pears can take a very long time to come into cropping - certainly a few years longer than apples. In ancient times, it was jokingly said that you'd never live to see a pear tree fruit if you were the person who planted it. However, modern rootstocks - especially the use of Quince for pears - has reduced the time taken to reach fruiting age. The variety grafted to the rootstock can
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As above: Buddleia will withstand really nasty growing conditions and is as close to impossible to kill as any plant I've ever encountered. However, my Buddleia's suffered some frost damage several weeks ago (first time ever, but we had record-low temperatures here in February) which killed all the new leaves, but the plants are bouncing back again now. In the unlikely event that your problems is a pest/disease in the soil, it'd probably be either nematodes or fungi. They are difficult
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The best compost is either home-made, or that which you can get for free from a local recycling centre - otherwise you'll be paying more for compost than the value of the crop which you will grow in it. Just recently, we brought back over 1000litres (15-20 sacks of 50-75litre capacity each) of compost to fill three raised beds of 1.5x1.0x0.25m. The retail cost of such compost would have been £50-£75.
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By far the most common yellow raspberry is Allgold/Fallgold. I'd guess that's what you're most likely to have. I seem to recall hearing about a summer-fruiting yellow raspberry, but it is so obscure that I can't recall its name or where I saw it. I have been told that Allgold and Fallgold are the same variety, and that they are both just a (yellow) mutant form of Autumn Bliss. All three of the aforementioned are autumn fruiters, but, if the just-fruited canes are not pruned to ground
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