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This is good for "standards" but the original post refers to dwarf apple trees on M9 rootstock. It also gives you a feel for how much more productive dwarf trees are - you can fit 6-10 in the same space needed for one standard tree.
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M9 is very flexible with regard to spacing. Commercial growers might use spacings of 1m between trees. 2.5m might be better in a garden situation. Don't forget you will need a permanent stake. What does the supplier recommend?
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Closer means you get more apples in a given space. Further apart means easier to look after - I would tend to favour this unless you really have space issues.
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It's not impossible with a 2-year tree, but a 1-year maiden whip is more likely to have buds in the 40cm region which will emerge very vigorously in spring, to start forming the framework of the fan. You could easily get 1m of growth on each arm if the tree likes where you have planted it. The other factor is that 1-year trees transplant more easily and get going more readily. Again, it is not the end of the world if you have a 2-year tree. 1-year plum trees can be very large, and may have side
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I think your plan sounds sensible, cut the stem to 40cm and use the 2 existing shoots (cutting them back a bit also). I would also contact the supplier to see if you can find out the actual age, and get their opinion too. There has been a lot of hope that VVA1 (Krymsk 1) will be a true dwarf rootstock for plums, but as you can see it is really a semi-dwarf.
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You create a new variety every time you plant an apple pip - that's why many apples are called "pippin" or "seedling" e.g. Bramley's Seedling. Most are no good, but the ones that are can then be propagated, i.e. cloned. by cuttings. Rootstocks are also apple varieties (or sometimes crab apples), and if you let them grow they will eventually produce apples. However they are selected for their desirable growing characteristics rather than their fruit.
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If you plant a seed from a Braeburn apple, the resulting seedling will be a completely new variety. However it will be closely related to its mother (Braeburn) and its father (most likely a crab apple pollinator placed in the orchard where the Braeburns were grown). So if you want to preserve an existing apple tree, planting a pip from one of its apples will not help you. The best way forward is to graft new trees, using cuttings from the existing tree. So you either need to find some rootstocks
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I'm not answering your question directly, but this site will show the track of the sun at your location at any time of the year: http://www.sunearthtools.com/dp/tools/pos_sun.php?lang=en
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Fruit flavour is a very personal thing, but I'll offer a couple of comments. Firstly, most fruit when home grown tastes far better than shop-bought equivalents, so simply by growing your own you will have a head-start. Secondly, in my opinion the humble plum, when properly grown (e.g. against a south-facing wall) is capable of achieving the most pleasurable flavour of any temperate fruits. Even commonplace varieties like Victoria or Marjories Seedling can be amazing when home-grown, but consider
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Most apple and pear trees do not grow true from seed, so (as has been mentioned) they have to be propagated from cuttings, a process usually known as grafting. Some plums will grow true from seed. Certain plum varieties also produce suckers and these can be rooted fairly easily or perhaps bent over and earthed up to encourage rooting. However be careful that the sucker is from the scion variety and not part of the rootstock. Any fruit tree grown from seed will potentially take a very long time to
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