General Gardening

Flag Irises - help with removal please.

Park Pharmacy Trust — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 13:34:22 GMT

The Park Pharmacy Trust owns and manages a preserved Victorian pharmacy which is held at The Merchant’s House, in Plymouth. At our headquarters in Thorn Park Lodge we also have a pharmaceutical library, collection of materia medica, and a flourishing pharmaceutical garden.

The pond in our garden is absolutely overrun with pond flags, Iris pseudocorus, and we are now at our wit's end. How in the world can we remove it? At the very least we want to take them back so that some pond remains for other plants and creatures to thrive. In summer they take up all the water so that nothing else can survive; in Devon's winter rain, they sit in a foot of water and resist all attack. The danger of damaging the pond liner is high but is there anything else for it but a night of the long knives (wearing waders)?

Any suggestions appreciated. Thank you.

parkpharmacytrust.blogspot.com

Does type of bubblewrap make much difference

seedsgrowing — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 10:44:25 GMT

I wondered if anyone could advise on whether having the thinner/small bubbles or thicker/larger bubbles type of wrap makes much difference when insulating a greenhouse? We have got some of the thinner stuff, that we used last year. This is where the bubbles are just under a centimetre. But I've seen the much thicker stuff, where the bubbles look to be about an inch across, in my local garden centre. It looks as though there might be more light let through with the bigger bubbles.

I'm just not sure whether it's worth getting the thicker stuff - any thoughts, anyone? I have got a fan heater for very cold times but obviously I'd like to use as little electricity as possible.

Removal of bamboo

jabaroo — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 19:41:20 GMT

We have just discovered bamboo roots that have pierced our pond liner. So we need to remove the bamboo once we have drained the pond. How easy is it going to be to completely remove the bamboo's roots? Any tips? They must have travelled 3 - 4 feet from the main area of plants, which are about 15 - 20 feet high.

A Fun Christmas Idea

Noniepony — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:07:50 GMT

Hi all, I spent last Saturday at Fanshawe Gate Hall - a gorgeous little slice of gardening heaven on the edge of the Peak District National Park.
The property is truly stunning and while meandering around the grounds, I came across a fantastic Christmas Feature easily doable in your own garden.
The owner of the hall, Cynthia, had found a box of discarded chandelier pieces leftover from a car boot sale find. Having no use for them and needing to tidy up the attic, she had the idea to hang them off the focal topiary tree residing at the front of the hall. The idea is simple but quite effective in that the crystal pieces catch the sun’s rays and cast rainbows across the garden all day.
The Hall has a long history and I encourage you to visit the website to view this little slice of gardening heaven: http://www.fanshawegate.com/index.html
In September of this year, Cynthia published her second book, Garden Tales, which chronicles the pleasures – and a few hiccups – of opening a garden to the public. The book is a delightful afternoon read and makes a great Christmas gift for those in the family with a green thumb http://www.grafikashop.com/garden-tales.html

Cheers,
Nonie

Sand or grit

Caxton — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 17:30:38 GMT

I need to buy some grit to break up a very moist/clay/composty herb garden. Any suggestions as to where I can buy this without it costing a fortune - Tunbridge Wells area of Kent Ideally I need one of those big bags that come of the back of a truck rather than have to buy lots of small bags from the garden centre.

Privet question

charlesa — Wed, 11 Nov 2009 12:14:45 GMT

Good morning all. I have a large and ancient privet hedge that acts as a border between myself and my neighbour. It is approx 100ft long by 5ft wide by 14ft high. About a year ago a central stretch of about 20ft started to brown and die. I was advised that it was suffering from honey fungus. I hired a digger and removed this section along with about 2ft either side. I burnt it and dug a trench approx 3ft wide by 3ft deep and removed the soil. Incidentally, at no point did I notice any actual eveidence of HF.This was about 6 months ago and, touch wood, the remaining hedge seems healthy. In the meantime I have run a porous hose along the base and have kept the hedge well watered and fed. Before I infill the gap with new soil and mature privet plants (assuming no further signs of disease appear), I would like to cut the hedge back. Ideally I want to cut around 4ft off the height and 1 ft off either side as far as width is concerned. My question is :can I do this all at once now or should I do it in stages (the top now, 1 side in the Spring, 1 side in the Autumn for instance) ? I would be very grateful for advice. Many thanks in advance.

Tree Removal/Too Close to the House

Jp49er — Mon, 09 Nov 2009 19:57:50 GMT

Normal 0

Dear My Garden, I would really appreciate your advice, I live in London, England. U.K.

I planted a Bay Laurel which was about 8 inches, 20 years ago when I moved to my home, I had only ever thought of Bay trees as being like shrubs, about 10 feet maximum.

It is now approximately about 25 - 30 feet tall, and as I do not own my home, the Housing Association that I rent from, want to cut it down as it is very close to the next door property i.e. the trunk is nearly touching the wall next door, about 2cm from the wall.

I have come to terms with the fact that if it has to come down, then so be it, but I really do wonder if it will cause damage by it's growth, or by it's root system. I have heard it has a shallow root system, and I do think that if it was going to cause damage by the root system, then it would have done so already and there is no evidence that it has done any damage.

I am trying to save it, but I understand the reasons the Housing Association have for wanting to cut it down, so I would really appreciate some true and honest advice.

I am also thinking of taking cuttings to grow in pots if it does have too come down, and would like to know the best way of doing this at this time of year i.e. November 9th 2009.

Yours sincerely.

Hollyhock seeds

parvenu — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 23:19:48 GMT

I have been searching my local area for single hollyhock seeds and have been lucky enough to find several shades from deep red to pink. I would appreciate advice on how to store and grow them for next year please.

Gladioli -bare stems

richardpeeej — Sun, 08 Nov 2009 15:54:52 GMT

My gladioli have just finished flowering and are now just bare stalks and long green leaves. Should I take them out now, or wait until the actual green leaves have turned brown and died off before I put them in a paper bag and store them in a frost free shed? Thanks for any suggestions

Prickly groundcover

Marg — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 21:31:57 GMT

My daughter is allergic to cats and our garden seems to hold 'cats conventions' every day. We have a long fence backing onto three cat owners' garden ends, and over a wall a cat lives in a very tiny house and garden (rented out as 'no pets'). The worst thing is picking our herbs and putting a hand/knee into cats poo - the herb garden being just over the wall where the cat lives. Does anyone know of a ground covering plant which is prickly?

Also, annoyingly to get back home the cat climbs up my climber wires and my climbers have given up. I have put stronger garden wire and am now growing a rampant rambling rose up the wall. There are plenty of prickly things to deter cats from walls and fences, but does anyone know of the quickest growing pricklies?

I most certainly don't dislike pets, but I do have more than my fair share from these furry friends.

Marg

Cow versus horse manure!

Lady P — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 19:45:12 GMT

Can anyone advise what the pro's and con's are of using either? This is for a new raised herbaceous bed on clay where I'm going to use 6 tonnes of topsoil, and 3 tonnes of manure. I have a supplier of some 3-year old cow poo --- will it be OK? Thanks!

Trying to work out which is best sand for cuttings...?

Gro-way — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 23:13:38 GMT

I have read that the best pure sand is collected from builders yard as a local sand ,not bagged. Often buiders sand which is bagged is to large a partical size apparently. Can any one tell me more?

Seperate question-

Also I have posted about problems with coolglass sticking to polycarbonate. I have had replies but we are struggling for solutions. You can spray on polycarbonate according to Bayer coolglass makers? The forum thread is in tools and equiptment forum, so please if u have time have a quick look if u can- much appreciated! Thanks again.

Lawn Destruction - Leatherjackets

badchipper — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 01:48:11 GMT

Hello

My fescue lawn (Rolawn Minster Pro), laid February 08, was infested August 08 through Spring 09 by these nasty little beasts. Lawn recovered over the Summer, while the little buggers pupated, but yellowed again in August this year. Applied lots of Nematodes on 25/08, and thought I had killed them. Alas no. They are with me again for yet another mild wet Winter, and it's now too late to call up the microscopic army. It makes me wish that Edinburgh was further North! Cold and dry seem to be their nemesis. Anyway, the advice from the greenkeepers at my golf club is that I need to just get older, watch my grass die, yet again, and then try again with the Nematodes in early Spring. They also suggested that the wee beasties might have a preferential taste for the finer grasses and I should consider overseeding with a mix which includes meadow grass. Hmm - the greenkeepers can cut down to 5mm and thus be the masters of meadow grass, while my Suffolk Punch is only comfortable with 14/19mm, so not sure on that one.

Here are the questions. Thank you in advance for any replies...

1. The neglected and weed-ridden grasses of my neighbours are an enviable emerald green. Do these nasty little beasts, not my neighbours, only like bowling green grasses? Should I start overseeding with meadow grasses? Should I really move away from fescues? I just want a nice green grass that I can stripe and forbid all relations from walking on. Is that too much to ask?

2. Should I bombard them now, the wee buggers not my family, with Provado (the only chemical available in my garden centres)? It didn't work when I half-heartedly tried it in the past. If I went big-time with it now - and it didn't work - would its lingering presence scupper the attempts of the Nematode army I intend sending in in early Spring? Tell me that this would be a bad idea and I should be patient.

3. Is it possible to overdose with Nematodes? I bunged the whole packet, allegedly enough for 100 sq m, on my 60 sq m. Too mean to throw the rest way - yeah, yeah I'm Scottish - but surely it's not like overdosing with fertilizer; I thought it would enable the microscopic army to be better placed to seek out and destroy, no?

4.Did I apply Nematodes too early? (25/08/2009 Edinburgh). It's not like infecting the soil with nasty chemicals, so is there a limit to how often one can apply them? Suppose I was fixated enough to apply them every week throughout March/April and then again Aug/Sep/Oct... and would you all promise not to tell my wife?

If you got this far, thanks for your time. There are loads of people out there who know the answers to what must be a not uncommon problem. I just hope I can connect with them. Does the Moderator of this forum link us through to the Experts in the RHS? How else can we communicate with them?

So many questions. Any help and all views welcome. - apart from advising me to dig up my lawn and get out more.

David, who is now a marginally better chipper than he used to be

Too late to Plant Spring Bulbs?

Smudger54 — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 09:58:11 GMT

I've left things a bit late this year - is it too late to plant out spring bulbs? I live in Bristol and it is still very mild (17 deg) and I wanted to plant out some native narcissi. Soil is clay based but i've added some manure.

Greenhouse Disinfectant

Roundelder — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 08:42:10 GMT

I would appreciate any tips or advice concerning the best product to use to disinfect my 18'6" x 6'6" Aluminium & Toughened glass greenhouse. Thanks

Badgers

Helen — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 17:14:31 GMT

We have a small garden in West Sussex which we share with badgers. Most of the time we get on well, although they have totally re-structured the lower part of the garden. I have learned that bulbs must be grown in containers topped with wire and that day lilies are a favourite sett liner. But I was upset today to find that they have completely removed all the new and expensive grasses I planted recently! Does anyone have suggestions for how to live in harmony with our badgers and still have an attractive garden?

Planning a New border

Janice — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 12:33:13 GMT

Hello I m after a bit of advice I want to start a new border down one side of my garden but next door have very high confers tree as a hedges and they overhang how much space should I leave between them.

ONE ALLOTMENT - ONE FAMILY

Aging Misery — Sun, 30 Aug 2009 22:57:39 GMT

In this day and age allotments are an increasingly scarce commodity with many districts suffering extensive waiting lists of families desperate to grow their own produce in an ecological & enviromentally sensitive manner.

Whilst many councils do their bit in providing extra space as their budget allows - other users occupy multiple sites across borough boundaries. Is this fair? Does any one care?

GM

David — Sun, 18 Oct 2009 07:24:51 GMT

Another well known gardening organisation's forum is running a debate on this somewhat emotive subject following their president having apparently said that he would not object to what he calls "peoples GM"

I do recall that the subject does occasionally come up on this forum but I was wondering whether there is an official RHS opinion on the matter?

Ground Elder Nightmare

Lynsey — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 11:27:32 GMT

Was just wondering if anyone knows of any miracle solutions for getting rid of ground elder? I've dug up a lot in the last week or so from a flower bed but I can see that it spreads under our lawn. I read somewhere that it keeps regenerating if you leave any in the soil (even the tiniest pieces) and I really don't want to start digging up the lawn to get rid of it. If I put some kind of weed killer down I'm guessing it will kill the lawn as well. Any ideas much appreciated.

Thanks

Beautiful perennial border from weed patch/rubble dump?

Gertroid — Sun, 20 Sep 2009 22:23:24 GMT

New gardener, I'm gradually reaching out from the verandah of a flat in a Victorian house in S.E. London to the back garden...

There is an area which runs right across the wall at the end of the garden - beyond the parking area. The strip is 2 - 3 metres wide and about 16 metres long. There is a wall behind it, which is East facing, with a little South. But, unlike the rest of the back garden, it gets a lot of sun. It is also sheltered from the worst of the weather.

It used to grow big, early sweet blackberries. At one point they were taken out. And the wall that used to be there was knocked down by a JCB working next door. They rebuilt the wall, but left all the bricks and debris. Also, there is a run of concrete over part of that back area, which has been there for at least 30 years. Last spring I had a mind to dig a wildlife pond on the South end of this patch, but I met the concrete at about 18 inches down (encouraged by my house mates, though, I dug it in the lawn and it's been great). Obviously I don't know about the rest of the length until I dig it. But at the moment, all areas not covered by garden waste are growing prolific nettles.

So, the advice I need is this: when I've pulled up all the nettles, moved the dumps and, more majorly, heaved out most of the bricks and rubble and I finally want to create a magnificient perennial border, what am I likely to need to do to the soil. I have a fairly clever friend who tells me that as long as there's enough depth of soil (not sure how much needed for your average perennial??) it should be fertile (evidence the nettles) and has sufficient drainage (because of the rubble which I shall fail to remove). And likely all it will need will be, basically, potash.

Is she right, do you think?

Thanks for any advice.

Grass mowing, seeding and feeding question

Shane — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 07:15:11 GMT

Hello everyone, I am a new member and this is my first post and my first garden so please be gentle... I have a small garden with 2 lawns which were extremely patchy over summer. I had succcessfully seeded the patchy areas and along with aerating, watering filled them in quite well. My question is I need to mow the lawn and still need to lay more seed - along with Top Dressing and then need to use some autumn feed. Is it ok to do these things in altogether, as in will the feed not harm the seeds I lay or Top Dressing? My plan was to first mow - quite high setting of mower. Then spread seed, the top dressing and then feed - all in the same day. Can anyone please advise? Thanks in advance, Shane

Calluna Vulgaris leaves turning brown

halo1234 — Sat, 10 Oct 2009 23:04:18 GMT

Hi, I Have 6 Calluna Vulgaris, mixture of pink & white. I noticed that 2 of the plants leaves have started to go brown, along with the flowers. As these are evergreen I'm assuming this is bad. They were planted out around 2 months ago & have all put on a decent amount of growth. They are all in the same soil close together, my soil is a little clay'ish & is slightly alkaline. I've not watered them for 6+ weeks & the tips are not drooping at all.

I did a quick search here & on the net & couldn't find anything specific relating to this

Thanks

toxic yew

maryanne — Thu, 24 Mar 2005 08:19:50 GMT

Hi Does yew retain its toxic quanlity when burnt? Can I use ash from a bonfire of yew on my veg patch safely?

Midges!!!!

Maddock — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 13:49:44 GMT

Hi, I am being plagued by swarms of midges in the garden early morning and then mid afternoon through to the evening. For some reason they have deceided I taste nice and I am bitten every time I venture outdoors, even when it's just a dash to the garage and back.

There is an old well in one corner which is very deep and doesn't appear to be their 'home'. The house is very old, south facing and has a high walled garden. Is it likely to be the lawn or are they attracted to particular plants/shrubs?

Rather than covering myself in chemicals every day, I wondered whether there were any other solutions to the problem (other than never venturing outdoors!)

Any suggestions are very welcome!

Thanks