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Full soil testing kits

Last post 20-01-2009 6:13 PM by Digger. 36 replies.

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  • 04/12/2008 09:55 AM
    • JamesA
    • Peterborough
    • 24 Aug 2006
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    I have a PH kit, but I wondering if it's worth buying a kit that tests for Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium.
    This would give me a starting point analysis of my soil.

    However, people often say garden to the soil you have.

    My question is, if I'm likely to carry on adding garden compost and start adding bone meal whatever the results is it worth the £15-20?
    Is it better to send soil off for analysis or is that really expensive?

    Even if the results said there were high nitrogen levels you'd still want to add garden compost wouldn't you?
    Are you expected adjust the ratio of the separate N-P-K fertilizer components to correct the problem?

    Could you actually test your garden compost to see if its too nitrogeny?

    Is this all unnecessary for a home garden with vegetable patch?

  • 04/12/2008 10:32 AM
    • Digger
    • Northern UK
    • 18 Jul 2005
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    Hello James A, I would say it is very worthwhile having your soil tested, the RHS do offer this service for members and non members, there are quite a few companies that will offer the same testing services, and if you wish you can be crop specific, ie send your soil to them and tell them what you intend to grow using that soil and they will send you back a full analysis and advise you on what additives if any are needed for that specific crop. I have a soil testing kit and it's a good tool to have, soil testing is a good idea at the beginning of each season and I think it makes perfect sense to test or have it tested. You can perform a test on your compost for nitrogen, but if I were you i would test the soil where you intend to grow your crop and then add whatever may be required for the specific crop, you can also get your soil tested for trace elements from some companies, I think the RHS charges £20 or so for members to have soil tested, I will probably send my soil to them as well as my own test because the RHS gives a full and comprehensive report on your soil along with good scientific advice. I don't for one minute think that £20 or £25 is too expensive at all. I grow a lot for exhibition work and getting the soil "right" at the start of the growing season is essential for good results. My advice to you is send the soil to the RHS and get it analysed, I think you collect samples at various depths from the intended growing areas and then send in a cross sample from them.

    digger Devil
  • 04/12/2008 10:43 AM
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    Good quality testing kits sold to farmers and used by experienced people with a good understanding of soil chemistry and backed up by occassional lab testing can give fairly accurate results.

     Kits sold to gardeners are not necessarily of the same quality and few gardeners will have the skills to use test kits in a meaningful way.

    The sensible approach is to remember that soil changes rather slowly so a lab test is valid for at least 4 years.  Therefore a test now will give you the baseline that you can then use to add lime and potassium, phosphorus and possibly magnesium - once amended the soil won't change much for several years.

    Nitrogen is the exception.  It is released from organic materials all summer and converted into inorganic forms - these and any chemical fertiliser nitroegn get washed out of the soil by winter rains.  In spring the soil is deficient in nitrogen until organic material rots or until you add chemical nitrogen fertiliser.  Therefore nitrogen analysis is seldom carried out.

    It is well worthwhile to have a lab test done every 4-7 years, but once the soil has been put right, all you need  to do is add nitrogen.  This can be in the form of compost (best), manure (good) or fertiliser (not so good  but making enough compost is difficult and manure is laborious stuff to apply).

    So you look at your crops and identify those that need oodles of nitrogen:

    Brassicas, beetroot, salads, spinach and give them plenty of organic matter and a dose of fertiliser - say 100g per square metre of growmore or if just fertiliser 150 per square metre of growmore

    Then you consider crops that need modest nitrogen and apply either organic matter or fertiliser at say 70g growmore every sq metre

     Potatoes, tomatoes, sweetcorn, french and runner beans, parsnips, radishes

    Finally consider those crops with low nitrogen needs:

    Broad beans, peas and carrots - they can usually get by on residues from previous crops

    You might have to give rather more fertiliser if your soil is thin and sandy or chalky.

    If growth is not good you might water in some high nitrogen fertiliser and up the dosage of manure and fertiliser in subsequent years.

    By adding nitrogen containing materials that also have potassium and phosphorus such as compost, manure or general fertiliser you will be topping up the soil reserves automatically and all should go well for years and years.

    Boggy

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Beware the bat-eared bogweevil
  • 04/12/2008 03:30 PM
    • JamesA
    • Peterborough
    • 24 Aug 2006
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  • 04/12/2008 03:30 PM
    • JamesA
    • Peterborough
    • 24 Aug 2006
    • 160
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  • 04/12/2008 03:30 PM
    • JamesA
    • Peterborough
    • 24 Aug 2006
    • 160
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  • 04/12/2008 03:33 PM
    • JamesA
    • Peterborough
    • 24 Aug 2006
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    (Forum went haywire there)

    Thanks digger and boggy you've been a real help again.

    Do you think it makes any difference taking the samples in winter?

  • 04/12/2008 06:52 PM
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    Samples can be taken at anytime, but you probably won't be surprised to hear that the results will be misleading if samples are taken soon after adding lime, fertilizer or manure. Labs and any kits worth using will give most careful instructions on taking a representative sample. Boggy

    Beware the bat-eared bogweevil
  • 04/12/2008 07:52 PM
    • Digger
    • Northern UK
    • 18 Jul 2005
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    try these chaps www.westmeters.co.uk  I got a wonderful soil testing kit from them, it had very comprehensive usage instructions and contains all the information to perform good and accurate tests yourself, it isn't difficult to do, and you have the convenience of getting your test results straight away.

    digger Devil
  • 04/12/2008 08:36 PM
    • Phot's-Moll
    • The sunny South coast.
    • 06 Jan 2007
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     I've never tested my soil - do you think that's a mistake?

    Whether you think you can do a thing, or think you cannot, you are right.
  • 04/12/2008 08:48 PM
    • Digger
    • Northern UK
    • 18 Jul 2005
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    It all depends on what you intend to grow Phot's, i know of people who have never tested their soil or had it tested, i have spoken recently to some chaps and chapesses some of them are experts and they recommend that soil should be tested at least for the major nutrients, the test kit I bought wasn't expensive and it gives good accurate results and is relatively straightforward to use. Soil testing isn't the sole preserve of exhibition or commercial growers and you don't really need a degree in biology to perform a soil test it's easy enough, if I can do it anyone can.

    digger Devil
  • 04/12/2008 10:46 PM
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    There is a fundamental fact about soil analysis - to be any good its findings have to nearly exactly match what the average plant is expected to get from the soil.  Given that plants differ and that soils are very diverse indeed this is a extremely exacting task that has taken decades to bring to its current state.  Even so it is not unheard of for commercial producers to split samples and send to two different labs that use different methodologies and compare results (which are seldom identical) to get a clearer idea of the state of their soil.

    To do this both lab tests and DIY kits have been developed to perform extractions and measure the nutrient levels that reflect what is subsequently observed in field experiments.

    Much of a soil's total nutrient content is unavailable to plants. You might imagine extracting nutrients with nitric acid and over-estimating nutrient levels or with water and under-estimating levels. This free booklet gives a very good introduction

    In a laboratory there is very much less variation in soil preparation technique, reagent properties extractant concentrations, extraction times and shaking/stirring than with test kits.   Also in laboratories more accurate measuring methods are available than the visual colorimetric methods, often confounded by soil colour, used in test kits. This free on-line book tells you far more than is healthy about soil testing.

    The wonder is that test kits can produce useful results at all - but they sometimes can, although independent trials have not been kind to the inexpensive kits offered for use by amateur gardeners.  The kits offered to gardeners can certainly be used by almost anybody, but this is probably the root of their generally unsatisfactory nature - too many compromises have been made to keep costs low and the instructions simple.

    If you fancy using kits the way forward is to  start with both kits and lab test - compare the results to see how the kit reflects the lab analysis of your soil.  In subsequent years you can use the kit with a fair idea of the degree of inaccuracy involved.  If you have sudden large changes in nutrient levels from year to year you should consider paying attention to your sampling technique and the quality of your methods and reagents, as soils seldom change dramatically over short time periods.

     pH kits are very much more reliable than nutrient kits by the way, but even here they are insufficiently accurate to provide guidance on exactly how much lime to apply.

    As to whether you should use a soil test - it all depends - before making a new garden, planting an orchard or  where intractable problems have been encountered then definitely yes, elsewhere perhaps not.  Most garden samples I have seen are usually rich in phosphorus, potassium and magnesium and of good pH as fertiliser and lime are cheap and gardeners apply them liberally, so if problems are found then the likelihood is that lack of water and nitrogen are the cause.

     

    Boggy

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Beware the bat-eared bogweevil
  • 04/12/2008 11:15 PM
    • Digger
    • Northern UK
    • 18 Jul 2005
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    ha ha boggy old fruit ! the kit i bought was from www.lbsgardenwarehouse.co.uk it's advertised as a commercial soil analysis kit and once purchased  i checked out the manufacturers website just to see what I was dealing with, as this year i am on a new plot thats been a field for 20 odd years I thought it wise to test the soil, spo i did my own tests in the two areas that i wish to grow in, and to be sure i took advantage of the wonderful offer the N.V.S. is giving to it's members via an out fit called landcrop sciences (i think)  anyway £15 for a full analysis is not to be sniffed at, so indeed I have done my own test (quite amateur) and sent one to a specialist, I spoke to david Thornton a week or two ago and he did heartily recommend soil testing. I will be interested indeed to see the results, then I shall probably send a sample to the chaps at the RHS probably Wisley and they will have some boffins look at the sample, and i am told the RHS does provide a very well presented and comprehensive tome based on the analysis sent.

    digger Devil
  • 06/12/2008 03:40 PM
    • Susiq
    • Northumberland
    • 16 Feb 2008
    • 1,104
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    hee hee, after Boggy's response, I'm going to leave it all to chance!!!

  • 06/12/2008 04:34 PM
    • Digger
    • Northern UK
    • 18 Jul 2005
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    I'm going to send a  soil sample to the RHS as well as the NVS one and I'll compare the results together, I have heard tell that the RHS is a very posh soil test and you get a full booklet detailing everything about the soil

    digger Devil